A Stroll Through Le Parc

Well, hello there, Fall.  There you are.

Today, we were in Saguenay, Quebec. Ever heard of it?  I admit, I had not, before this cruise, that is.  I am here to tell you, it is worth a trip. The Saguenay Fjord is said to be the longest in North America - it shoots off the Gulf of St Lawrence, stretching westward into a large bay called La Baie du Ha! Ha! (No, seriously, that is its name!)  The region continues on to a large lake to the west,and several rivers interact with each other and the fjord.  It's a place of remarkable beauty that's been pretty quiet for many years, with main industries being aluminum, forestry, agriculture, and now, tourism. (somebody figured out the fjord is deep enough for cruise ships, I guess.) Saguenay is both the name of the region, and the city. The city is actually three formerly separate towns combined into one, but with a very French touch, they are now called arrondissments.

In recent years (since 1971, anyway)  Saguenay had the misfortune of experiencing two natural disasters - an earthquake in 1971, and a torrential flood in 1996.  The flood swept through La Baie's downtown, taking everything in its path.  The people had time to evacuate, but the local bank lost both its vault and its ATM machine - straight into the Bay.  The vault was recovered about two years later, but the ATM machine (and its $75,000 - 100,000) are out there somewhere....  The flood is commemorated by a pyramid on the site that washed away - the pyramid is made of old "Yield" signs donated by the Quebec government.  How environmental of them.

Fall colors!  We found them today. Even in the rain  (what the Aussies would call "stiddy rayne") and overcast conditions, we saw fabulous yellow, orange, and red leaves everywhere.

We'd planned to go on a kayaking excursion, in the Saguenay National Park (er, Parc) but the weather had other ideas.  It was kind of a relief, actually, given the temperature hovering around 45 degrees (around 8 degrees C.) and the wind on the water.  We were lucky to get a chance to switch to the light hike through the forest.

We boarded the bus for the ride to the Parc, approximately 50 minutes.  Had a chatty older fellow as our guide - he lives here part of the time and guides in English, then snowbirds it down to Florida!

The park lines the fjord on both sides, and also the entrance from the Gulf. It is a relatively new park, and its purpose is, of course, to preserve its natural beauty, and the creatures therein.  We found out today that the beluga whales are infrequent visitors now; the protected areas should help them come back.

Also learned today: porcupine meat is recommended if you are lost in the forest and need something to eat.  Apparently, it has no parasites.  Subsequently, porcupines are protected in the park!  We saw a fella wandering next to the road - he puffed his quills at us as he shuffled off into the brush.

Also seen today: the leading edge of the snow geese migration south.  There were perhaps several hundred on the bay, but our guide said soon there would thousands.

We had a short wander through the forest with a guide from Parc Quebec, a young biologist who lives here year-around, and keeps track of the wildlife within.  She told us all about how hard the ice freezes, and how you need your snowmobiles to get around.  (In fact, unless you are a local or have a permit, you cannot ride your snowmobile in the Parc.  Oh well)

Ice fishing is kind of a big deal around here, as it is popular in paces where the ice freezes thick enough to support it.  Our bus guide said it was the largest place in which ice fishing happens in salt water.

Our bus guide's English was very good, but he did have some funny (to my ears) pronunciations.  For example,  WISS-cn-sn  (Wisconsin)  He was also very enthusiastic about all the lakes in the area, most with cottages for summer use.  We saw lots of these on the way.  We did not see any of the moose who frequent the area, however.

The forest - verdant, fecund, all those things.  Our group of about 14 (most sporting rain ponchos) followed our guide through the forest, down along the fjord. Lots of deciduous trees, and a number of evergreens, too. Ferns, roots, moss.  Parts of the trail (lots of it, actually) were covered in a boardwalk, and that safeguarded with mesh for better traction.  Good thing, too, because it was slippery.  In fact, there was a proper "hike" on offer this afternoon, too, but it was deemed "wet, muddy, and slippery" by those who went.  We got a good look at the fjord, forest, and surrounding mountains without all the fuss <grin>  And those of us who have hiked in the Pacific Northwest aren't afraid of a little rain and mud on the trail!

Speaking of the Pac NW, we met a nice woman from Portland, a trauma nurse back there.  That came up in conversation because when we were waiting to depart on our excursion, another woman took a fall in the theater, and our new friend sprang up to be of assistance.  The lady turned out to be fine, and the nurse came with us on the hike.

The hike was really well worth it - it was relaxing, pretty, quiet, and a departure from our city travels (those are perfectly fine, of course, but it's nice to mix it up.)

I realize this entry is probably reading even more disjointed than usual!  I'm going to run with what I have now, and perhaps update it tomorrow. We have a day at sea, as we are leaving behind Quebec and heading to Sydney, Nova Scotia.  Besides, it's late, and we officially enter the Atlantic time zone overnight, so we lose an hour.  Here goes....